737 Leg 7 Everest - Day 159

It’s been a funny few days. Yesterday I had mixed feelings. The main Jagged Globe team arrived back in Base Camp from their successful summit and it was great to have them back safely. It's been hard for me though, some are exhausted, some elated and for some it was the scariest day of their lives; either way, respectfully, I didn't want to hear, they can switch off, but Steve and I are still very much in game mode. Steve and I spent most of the day in our tents for that reason.

Another reason yesterday was so tough, is that after seeing the new weather forecast and heavy snow in base camp, we had to delay our summit bid. It's been really reassuring to have David Hamilton's input (he came down yesterday), between him and the experience in our sherpa team, as frustrating as it is, I'm confident it's the right thing.

We have to hold our nerve. It looks like we will be one of the last teams on the mountain, as to my knowledge all other teams are already in the higher camps, the ice doctors (Sherpas that maintain the route and ladders in the icefall) are saying that they're going to start pulling the ladders up and closing the icefall on the 27th. Both Steve and I are ready and in good shape and ready to leave tomorrow. One of the main group had retina freezing on the summit and lost his eyesight temporarily on his descent, he's fine now though. In fact I want to say thank you to him, Alan, as he's lent me his steel grivel crampons as my lighter aluminium grivel crampons have snapped. There is a lot of rock/mixed climbing on the upper mountain, which my crampons aren’t designed for. Top man. We have to react to both the good and bad days the same up here, but I felt a little flat after yesterday, but still think Sargamartha wants us to summit though and today am feeling good!

We are leaving base camp tomorrow (20th) for our summit bid, heading for camp 2. Today has been the quiet before the storm, mostly chilling, hydrating and eating! I've been packed or at least sorted for a while now waiting for my chance! Were planning on leaving at 2am to climb through the icefall when it’s coldest and most stable. This is it I guess! No excuses and no second chances. As always in the mountains, a little lady luck from mother nature would be much appreciated!

EVEREST WEATHER REPORT

General situation:
A branch of the subtropical jet lies over northeast India. For the coming days the jet moves away. Wind speeds are low to moderate at summit. Wind gains speed at the 22nd and 23rd of May. Afterwards the wind weakens.

Wind:
Today-21st: Speeds around 15 to 25 km/h at summit. The direction changes from northwest (20th) to west (21st).
22nd-23rd: West/Southwest, 30-50 km/h mean wind speed. Gusts can go up to 60/70 km/h.
24th: Decreasing wind speeds.
Outlook: Low wind speeds.

Weather:
Today-21st: Convective weather. Showers are probable especially in the second half of the day and possible in the night for tomorrow. Night to 21st should be clear.
22nd-23rd: Sunny forenoon, some cumulus clouds in the afternoon. At high altitudes the weather remains fine.
24th: Some showers in the afternoon.